Frame-Off Restorations Process (Part 5 – Reassembly)

Okay guys I am sorry that I did not get any blogs out for November, but between the holiday, the COVID, and family member passing away that made last month crazy for me. I will be only post one this month and that was made possibly by our newest employee Bella Zacchia for helping out with this blog.

Last but not least in the restoration process, we reach the reassembly of the vehicle. The reassembly process takes a significant amount of time due to the preciseness necessary in assembling a perfectly functioning vehicle. Putting a vehicle back together at Graveyard Run Restorations follows the assembly line process in factories throughout history.

            The first step in the reassembly process begins with putting the frame and suspension back together. We start by installing the rear end and suspension on the frame. This includes the rebuilt rear differential (if the vehicle is rear wheel drive), axles, bump stops, and any springs supporting the back of the car. At this point, we will also sort out the front end. Depending on the style of the front suspension, we will install the control arms and ball joints or kingpins, the springs, and the spindles. Any steering components mounted to the frame are installed at this point. Any other part that allows for us to get “wheels on the ground” will also receive the necessary attention. During any point in this process, the brakes and brake lines are built and created respectively. Additionally, we will mount up the master cylinder if it is located under the body or along the frame. If not, the brakes will remain unfinished until the body is mounted. Once the brake lines are installed, the fuel system is assembled on the frame before the body is set down. This includes the tank, fuel sending unit, and lines if none of the system is housed in the body.

            With the suspension installed on the frame, we begin the second step of mechanical and electrical assembly before the body ever comes near the completed chassis. First, we install the drivetrain. The rebuilt engine-either as a short block or long block-and transmission are mounted to the frame. If the car is rear wheel drive, we will install the rebuilt driveshaft, connecting the engine and transmission to the rear differential which finally powers the vehicle into motion. Once this is complete, the frame bushings are installed and then the body is lowered on the frame for mock-up. At this point, we begin the next stage in assembly.

            As we lower the body onto the chassis, we begin the third step-assembling the body. When the body is first installed on the frame, it is simply mocked up. This means that nothing is tightened, and no doors are mounted. As such, the first thing we do is ensure that all our measurements are correct, squared, and in position on the frame. Then we tighten the body down to its final position. With that step checked off we begin mounting the doors, and trunk to the body; all of which are loosely bolted up and then adjusted into their final position in order to achieve the perfect body and door gaps. Finally, if it benefits the completion of the restoration, we will install the fenders. However, for most pre-1950’s cars the fenders will be one of the last pieces installed due to their shape. The team will install and adjust the hood once the engine is finalized to reduce any chance of damage to the piece while the engine is still receiving work.

            At this point final assembly begins, which includes everything to truly finalize a vehicle. The technicians finish step two-assembling the engine. The starter, carburetor, fuel pump, pulley system, alternator, AC compressor, and power steering pump will all mount to the engine if applicable to the vehicle. The radiator and radiator hoses are installed, as well as the heater hoses and A/C components, if the car is so equipped. Mechanical systems such as the brakes and steering linkages undergo final assembly and then are finalized.

            With the mechanical assembly nearing completion, we begin our fourth step-the process of electrical wiring. We run a ground wire from the respective terminal on the battery to the engine block, from the block to the firewall, and from the block to the frame, depending on whether the vehicle is positive or negative ground. This begins our electrical ground system. Constant power-either 6 volts or 12 volts, will be run to the starter, the ignition switch, and fuse panel. Key-on power from the ignition switch will be run to all other components. This includes: the charging system (either an alternator or generator), the fuel system (sending unit, electric fuel pump, and the electric choke on the carburetor (if applicable)), AC and heat, the dash, and all other powered components. After bench-testing each component, we roughly begin running wires to anything already mounted to the frame. This means that we will run power and ground wires along the frame to the fuel pump, headlights, and taillights. This will all be left unfinished until the electrical system is working perfectly. Then, it will be loomed and tied down.

            As we finish mechanical and electrical assembly, the final body assembly begins. We install the hood, fenders, body chrome, and trim. Mirrors and bumpers are double checked and finalized. Here, we shift into assembling the interior. Window regulators, glass, door latches and handles are all installed into the doors. The headliner or convertible top is installed. In the body, sound deadening, jute carpet padding, and the carpet are all installed. The dash and doors undergo final assembling and checks, and once finalized we can install the package tray, seats, and door panels. The trunk will be fitted with the correct liner, jack, and spare tire as well.

 With assembly completed, we begin the extensive process of testing and finalizing the vehicle. We go through each aspect of the car to double and triple check for concours-level quality, top notch drivability and mechanical function, and anything you may have specifically requested. By the time we finish, the vehicle will be better than you could have ever imagined. This process is how we achieve our nationally acclaimed restorations. We hope to see you and your vehicle in our shop soon.

– Hope Everyone has a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year! –

Rachel Richardson and the GYR gang

Frame-Off Restorations Process (Part 3 – Component repairs)

With every vehicle build you will have some component that has to be repaired or replaced. Some examples include starters, generators, A/C systems, carburetors, etc. When Graveyard Run Restorations comes across components in need of repair, we have two choices: to repair them in house or to outsource them.

As mentioned in the disassembly blog, when we outsource work, we can run into problems.  Problems that can prolong the restoration include: long waiting periods, the part we are sending out is a rare part, or the part is in much worse shape than we thought it was.  Once in blue moon, the person that we usually outsource our component to has passed away. Then we have to hunt for someone else who really knows what they are doing.  In the restoration world, not just anyone can do the repairs on these old vehicle components.  It truly takes someone who has been around that era of car or who has been taught by someone who knows the older vehicles, such as the 30s, 40s, and 50s.  Once the disassembly process is done and we know for sure that a part is in need of repair, we go ahead and contact our source and get them lined up for the repair. In some rare cases we even call up our source the same week that the vehicle owner signs the Restoration Agreement.

If we repair the component in house, we can still run into our fair share of problems.  During the component repair we can run into things like the part is so rare that we have to go on a hunt for that one little part to make the component work. As said before, this can take weeks or months.  Another problem we can run into is that no one has the part and we either have to make it or find someone who can make that part for us.  If we do find someone that is capable of making a part for one of the components, it normally does not come cheap.  In some cases, you could spend a $1,000 on a small part that is needed in order for your component to work as it should.  If all goes as GYR wants, a component can be repaired in few weeks. This is with testing it and going through the component to make sure every wire, nut, bolt, knob, etc. is in pristine working condition.  As with every vehicle, there are a lot of components that have to be looked over and this can take a few months to go through everything properly.

Graveyard Run Restorations strives to make sure that your classic vehicle is restored correctly and that it will stand out on the show field.  We also want to make sure you have a safe, sound, and dependable vehicle to enjoy touring the scenic highways with.  This only comes with particular attention to detail and should not be rushed.  The end result will be well worth the time invested.

Check back soon for more on our blog

Rachel Richardson and the GYR gang

Frame-Off Restorations Process (Part 2a – Bodywork)

Bodywork Process Part 2a

With the vehicle disassembled, your next process is bodywork.  The first thing we do during the bodywork process is to strip all the old paint off of the vehicle with aviation stripper until it is in bare metal. Once the vehicle is in bare metal, the next stage will be to media blast or dip in an acid bath which helps eliminate rust.  After the blasting and/or acid bath dipping stage, the vehicle will then be wiped down with a metal prep solution to keep it from rusting while doing any metal fabrication, woodwork, or leadwork on the vehicle.  The metalwork and leadwork stages are normally the longest processes for the vehicle.  During the metalwork stage, you will have to work the metal to get it back to the original shape it was in.  Sometimes a piece may have to be cut off and remade. While remaking a metal piece, this may involve a lot of cutting, grinding, shaping, lining up of the piece correctly and welding.  In some cases, such as the 1939 Packard, you will have woodwork.  If woodwork is present you will then have to take a lot of guess measurements because more than likely, the wood is rotten.  When dealing with rotten wood, you have to do a lot measuring, cutting, trimming, sanding, and pre-fitting to get it as it should be.  This process normally takes about 3 to 5 months, depending on how much wood is in the vehicle or in how bad a condition the wood is.

Once the metalwork and woodwork are done, you then begin adding lead to the car. The purpose of the leading is to fill in small dented areas that are hard to get out with metalwork or shaping and also to reinforce around any edges or seams.  The leadwork process is a labor-intensive job because as you are melting the lead, you also have to spread the lead out into the area you are wanting to apply it to.  Once all the lead has been applied, you then have to start filing and sanding it to make it smooth. After all the lead has been applied and smoothed, the exposed metal will again be wiped down with a metal prep solution. 

Check back about September 25 for the second part of bodywork – Painting.

Rachel Richardson and the GYR gang